Tuning Software and Hardware

[milius]

Je viens d'avoir un portable sans port serie et j'ai ajouté un convertisseur usb to db9 avec le cable de cobb accesport v1 wrx2002-2003 + romraider et ca fonctionne bien.

[milius]

Une nouvelle version de RomRaider s'en vient avec des cadrants style à aiguile. Il semble aussi y avoir du développement pour le projet qui permet de modifier les paramètres en temps réel, un peu comme le real time map de Cobb. Ramtune

[RedFloyd]

Question: Est-il possible de flasher un ecu de legacy 2005+ avec ecuexplorer et le câble d'un accessport V2 en utilisant le driver fourni par Cobb?

Dans ecuexplorer les models sont seulement pour des wrx, mais est-ce que ca marche aussi avec un legacy??

[milius]

Sur le site de Romraider qui utilise aussi le openport :

---
http://www.romraider.com/Documentation/ ... rFAQ#toc36
QCan I use an Accessport, DeltaDash cable or other OBD-II cable instead of the OpenPort cable to read/flash my ECU?

No, these cables will NOT work for reading or flashing. There is the possibility, however, that some cables may work for logging (if the proper drivers are available). Otherwise, for reading and flashing ROMs, the Tactrix OpenPort cable is required.

---

http://www.cobbforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36743
Il parle seulement pour le logging
Même chose pour EcuFLash, il a l'air de fonctionner presque seulement avec OpenCable

[RedFloyd]

Sur le site de Romraider qui utilise aussi le openport :

---
http://www.romraider.com/Documentation/ ... rFAQ#toc36
QCan I use an Accessport, DeltaDash cable or other OBD-II cable instead of the OpenPort cable to read/flash my ECU?

No, these cables will NOT work for reading or flashing. There is the possibility, however, that some cables may work for logging (if the proper drivers are available). Otherwise, for reading and flashing ROMs, the Tactrix OpenPort cable is required.

---

Hey merci Milius, c'est pas la réponse que j'aurais voulu mais au moins j'ai une réponse . T'as l'air de connaitre ca pas mal toi! Je dois avouer que c'est pas évident de trouver l'information dans tout les différents forum.

[milius]

Je le sais parce que mon cable de V1 ne fonctionne pas pour l'écriture et la lecture
Un jour, je vais en avoir un bon câble pour sortir les datas de mon ecu et les étudiers
Bref, moi aussi emprunter un câble Tactrix 1h, je serais heureux

[jefars]

http://www.montreal-subaru-club.com/vie ... hp?t=70393

pour la vielle ecole

[JP-OBS]

Sur le site de Tactrix, on retrouve maintenant seulement des cables à 160$US (Nouvelle version) ... est-ce qu'il existe une alternative?

Est-ce que le nouveau cable vaut vraiement la peine?

Est-ce qu'il existe une alternative moins chère?

Merci!

[jefars]

pour odb1 et 2

http://www.obd2allinone.com/sc/details.asp?item=12combo

tu as toujours cette option...

http://www.codeobd.com/obd2-scan-tool.php

Sinon pour les ODB1 subaru:

Subaru vehicles 1987-94 obd1 codes retrieval

Subaru code retrieval is done by accessing two things: diagnostic connectors located near the kick panel by the driver side and watching the codes being flashed by a lens light at the computer box located under the dash by the driver side.

There are 2 ways to get the codes: using the read memory mode which will give codes that have shown in the past but has not shown at present. This is done by connecting the read memory connector and disconnecting the test mode connector with ignition key on, engine off. To get the codes actively present, you need to access the D-check mode by disconnecting the read memory connector and connecting the test mode connector, also with ignition key on, engine off.

To clear the codes, both read memory and test mode connectors must be connected and with engine running. Make sure all codes showing at D-check mode is fixed or the codes will not clear.

Here are some popular Subaru obd1 codes 1987-94:

Code 11 Crank angle sensor fault
Code 12 Starter switch fault
Code 13 TDC sensor fault
Code 14 Injector no.1 fault
Code 15 Injector no.2 fault
Code 16 Injector no.3 fault
Code 21 Coolant temperature sensor fault
Code 23 Pressure sensor fault
Code 24 ISC solenoid valve fault
Code 26 Air temperature sensor fault
Code 32 Oxygen sensor fault
Code 33 Vehicle speed sensor fault
Code 35 Purge control solenoid fault
Code 36 Ignition circuit fault
Code 41 Air/fuel ratio control system fault
Code 42 Idle switch fault
Code 43 Throttle switch fault
Code 45 Atmospheric pressure sensor fault
Code 52 Clutch switch circuit fault
Code 62 Electric load signal fault
Code 63 Blower fan switch fault
Code 65 Vacuum pressure sensor fault

source: http://www.extreme-check-engine-light-c ... ecoder.htm

[jefars]

Voici une image des "diagnostic connectors".



SELF-DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM
HARD FAILURES
Hard failures cause CHECK ENGINE light to glow and remain on until problem is repaired. If light comes
on and remains on (light may flash) during vehicle operation, cause of malfunction must be determined
using diagnostic (code) charts. If a sensor fails, control unit will use a substitute value in its calculations to
continue engine operation. In this condition, commonly known as limp-in mode, vehicle runs but
driveability will not be optimum.
INTERMITTENT FAILURES
Intermittent failures may cause CHECK ENGINE light to flicker or glow and go out after intermittent fault
goes away. However, corresponding trouble code will be retained in ECM memory. If related fault does not
reoccur within a certain time frame, related trouble code will be erased from ECM memory. Intermittent
failures may be caused by sensor, connector or wiring related problems. See INTERMITTENTS in the H -
TESTS W/O CODES article.
RETRIEVING CODES
1. Enter specific test mode by connecting or disconnecting read memory and/or test mode connectors as
shown in the RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN MODES & CONNECTORS table. Connectors are
located behind left side of instrument panel. See Fig. 1 .
2. Observe malfunction indicator light (CHECK ENGINE light) or oxygen sensor monitor light. Note
any trouble codes. Long illumination periods of 1.2 seconds designate tens digit in numbered codes.
Short illumination periods of .2 second designate ones digit in numbered codes.
3. Tens and ones digits are separated by a .3-second interval of non-illumination. For example: 3 long
flashes (1.2 seconds each) followed by 5 short flashes (.2 second each) designate code 35.
4. After a 2-second break, another code will be displayed. Once all existing codes have been displayed,
sequence will repeat.
RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN MODES & CONNECTORS
Mode Read Memory Connector Test Mode Connector
U-CHECK (1) Disconnected Disconnected
READ MEMORY (1) Connected Disconnected
D-CHECK (1) Disconnected Connected
CLEAR MEMORY (2) Connected Connected
(1) Key on, engine off.
(2) Key on, engine running.
1995 Subaru Impreza
TESTS W/CODES
Organiser
Fig. 1: Locating Read Memory & Test Mode Connectors
Courtesy of SUBARU OF AMERICA, INC.
CLEARING CODES
After malfunction has been corrected, trouble code will clear from memory when CLEAR MEMORY mode
is accessed. Unless all items check okay in D-CHECK mode, memory will not be cleared. Refer to the
RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN MODES & CONNECTORS table.
ECM LOCATION
ECM LOCATION
TROUBLE CODE DEFINITION
OBD TROUBLE CODE IDENTIFICATION CHART - 1.8L
Application Location
Impreza Behind Right Side Of Dash
Code Circuit Affected Probable Cause
11 Crankshaft Position Sensor No Reference Signal
12 Starter Switch Switch/Wiring Defective
13 Camshaft Position Sensor Open/Short Circuit Or Defective
Sensor
14 Fuel Injector No 1 Injector/Harness Defective
15 Fuel Injector No 2 Injector/Harness Defective
16 Fuel Injector No 3 Injector/Harness Defective
17 Fuel Injector No 4 Injector/Harness Defective
1995 Subaru Impreza
TESTS W/CODES
Organiser
OBD II DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE IDENTIFICATION CHART - 2.2L
21 Coolant Temperature Sensor Open/Short Circuit Or Defective
Sensor
23 Mass Airflow Sensor Open/Short Circuit Or Defective
Sensor
24 Idle Air Control Solenoid Valve Open/Short Circuit Or Defective
Solenoid
31 Throttle Position Sensor Open/Short Circuit Or Defective
Sensor
32 Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Open/Short Circuit Or Defective
Sensor
33 Vehicle Speed Sensor No 2 Open/Short Circuit Or Defective
Sensor
34 EGR Solenoid Valve Open/Short Circuit Or Defective
Solenoid
35 Purge Control Solenoid Valve Open/Short Circuit Or Defective
Solenoid
36 Air Suction Solenoid Valve Open/Short Circuit Or Defective
Valve
41 Air/Fuel Learning Control Faulty Lean Control Function
51 Neutral Position Switch (M/T) Open/Short Circuit Or Defective
Switch
51 Inhibitor Switch (A/T) Open/Short, Cable Adjust, Or Def
Switch
55 Recirculation Gas Temp. Sensor Open/Short Circuit Or Defective
Sensor
56 EGR System Faulty EGR System Function
61 Fuel Tank Pressure Control Solenoid
Valve (California FWD Model Only)
Control Solenoid Valve Malfunction
Or Short Or Open In Harness
62 Fuel Temperature Sensor (Calif FWD
Only)
Short Or Open In Harness
63 Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor (Calif FWD
Only)
Short Or Open In Harness
Code SSM Title
(1)
Circuit Affected Probable Cause
P0100 QA Airflow Sensor Circuit Open/Short Circuit
P0101 QA-R Airflow Sensor Circuit
Range/Performance Problem
Bad Sensor
P0105 P-S Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction Open/Short Circuit
P0106 P-R Pressure Sensor Range/ Performance Bad Sensor
P0115 TW Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit
Malfunction
Open/Short Circuit
P0120 THV Throttle Position Sensor Circuit
Malfunction
Open/Short Circuit
1995 Subaru Impreza
TESTS W/CODES
Organiser
P0121 TH-R Throttle Position Sensor
Range/Performance
Bad Sensor
P0125 TW-CL Coolant Temp Too Low For Closed
Loop Control
Bad Sensor
P0130 FO2-V Front O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bad Sensor, Bad Fuel
P0133 FO2-R Front O2 Sensor Circuit Slow
Response
Bad Sensor, Bad Fuel
P0135 FO2H Front O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
Malfunction
Open/Short Circuit
P0136 RO2-V Rear O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bad Sensor, Bad Fuel
P0139 RO2-R Rear O2 Sensor Circuit Slow
Response
Bad Sensor, Bad Fuel
P0141 RO2H Rear O2 Sensor Heater Circuit
Malfunction
Open/Short Circuit
P0170 FUEL Fuel Trim Malfunction Any Part Of Fuel System
P0201 INJ1 Fuel Injector No 1 Inoperative Fuel Injector
P0202 INJ2 Fuel Injector No 2 Inoperative Fuel Injector
P0203 INJ3 Fuel Injector No 3 Inoperative Fuel Injector
P0204 INJ4 Fuel Injector No 4 Inoperative Fuel Injector
P0301 MIS-1 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected Bad Igniter
P0302 MIS-2 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected Bad Igniter
P0303 MIS-3 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected Bad Igniter
P0304 MIS-4 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected Bad Igniter
P0325 KNOCK Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction Open/Short Circuit
P0335 CRANK Crankshaft Position Sensor Open/Short Circuit, Bad
Sensor
P0340 CAM Camshaft Position Sensor Open/Short Circuit, Bad
Sensor
P0400 EGR EGR Flow Faulty EGR Sys. Function
P0403 EGRSOL EGR Circuit EGR System Malfunction
P0420 CAT CAT Efficiency Below Threshold Bad CAT, Bad Fuel
Control
P0441 CPC-F Incorrect EVAP Purge Flow Bad Purge Control
Solenoid Valve
P0443 CPC EVAP Circuit Malfunction Open/Short Circuit
P0500 VSP Vehicle Speed Sensor Bad Sensor
P0505 ISC Idle Control System Open/Short Circuit, Bad
Idle Solenoid
P0506 ISC-L Idle RPM Too Low Bad Idle Solenoid, Air
By-Pass
P0507 ISC-H Idle Too High Idle Solenoid, Air Leaks
P0600 N/A Serial Communication Link
Malfunction
Open/Short Circuit
P0601 RAM Memory Check Error ECM
1995 Subaru Impreza
TESTS W/CODES
Organiser
P0703
(2)
BRK Brake Switch Input Malfunction Faulty Switch, Open/
Short Circuit
P0705
(2)
RNG Transmission Range Sensor Circuit
Malfunction
Inhibitor Switch
P0710
(2)
ATF Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor
Circuit Malfunction
ATF Temperature Sensor,
Open/Short Circuit
P0720
(2)
ATVSP Output Speed Sensor (VSS No. 1)
Circuit Malfunction
VSS No. 1 Failure
P0725
(2)
ATNE Engine Speed Input Circuit
Malfunction
TCM, TCM-To-ECM
Wiring
P0731
(2)
GR_1 Gear 1 Incorrect Ratio N/A
P0732
(2)
GR_2 Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio N/A
P0733
(2)
GR_3 Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio N/A
P0734
(2)
GR_4 Gear 4 Incorrect Ratio N/A
P0740
(2)
LU_F Torque Converter Clutch System
Malfunction
Duty Solenoid, VSS,
Sensor Circuits
P0743
(2)
LU Torque Converter Clutch System
Circuit
Duty Solenoid B
P0748
(2)
PL Pressure Control Solenoid Circuit Duty Solenoid A
P0753
(2)
SFT1 Shift Solenoid "A" Circuit Shift Solenoid "A"
P0758
(2)
SFT2 Shift Solenoid "B" Circuit Shift Solenoid "B"
P0760
(2)
OVR_F Shift Solenoid "C" Malfunction Shift Solenoid "C"
P0763
(2)
OVR Shift Solenoid "C" Circuit Shift Solnoid "C" Circuit
P1100 ST_SW Starter Switch Circuit Malfunction Starter Motor
P1101 N_SW Neutral Position Switch Circuit
Problem (A/T & M/T)
Inhibitor Switch
P1102
(2)
BR Pressure Sources Switching Solenoid
Valve Circuit Malfunction
Solenoid Valve Circuit
P1103
(2)
TRQ Engine Torque Control Signal Circuit
Malfunction
ECM-To-TCM Harness
P1500 FAN_1 Cooling Fan No. 1 Circuit
Malfunction
Fan Relays
P1502 FAN_F Cooling Fan Function Problem Fan Function,
Overheating
1995 Subaru Impreza
TESTS W/CODES
Organiser
P1700 ATTH TP Sensor Circuit Malfunction (A/T) Throttle Position Sensor -
A/T models only.
P1701
(2)
CRS Cruise Control Set Signal Circuit
Malfunction (A/T)
TCM-To-CCM Circuit
P1702
(2)
ATDIAG A/T Diagnosis Input Signal Circuit
Malfunction
TCM-To-ECM Harness
(1) When using Subaru Select Monitor (SSM).
(2) Covered in entirety in appropriate TRANSMISSION SERVICE article.
1995 Subaru Impreza
TESTS W/CODES
Organiser
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

la suite ici:
http://www.montreal-subaru-club.com/vie ... 2&start=15

et pour un legacy odb1 how to complet :
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html#tps

[jefars]

Engine Management FAQ:

source: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=795608

Why do I need engine management? Consider your stock engine management for just a moment. Your stock engine control unit (ECU) is a very complex piece of circuitry that calculates hundreds of variables every second. All of these variables rely on inputs within a + or – range. When you modify your vehicle, these values change. As long as the changes are within the values the ECU expects to receive, your engine runs fine. Once the values are exceeded, the ECU is programmed to compensate to return the values to normal levels.

This is a layman’s explanation of how your stock ECU can actually work against you when modifying your vehicle. This also explains why modifications can feel great once they are bolted on but the butt dyno results seem to fade over time. This is due to ECU compensation.

What is the first step in finding what engine management I need? Finding a tuner. The Tuner FAQ will help with the general rules of finding a good tuner. Remember, it's always better to have a custom tune vs. a plug and play or "staged" map. Always defer to the tuner's advice as to what to choose as ultimately he will be the one to provide custom support. Discuss your goals and budget and your tuner should set you on the right path. If you are a "plug and play" kind of person, review the options below and decide for yourself along with input from locals in your regional forum and the car parts review forum.

What will engine management do for me? Generally speaking, engine management optimizes several engine functions to create more horsepower and efficiency. The stock ECU is designed to ensure your car runs fine and monitors the engine’s output parameters. Utilizing an aftermarket engine management solution takes this to the next level.

Often times, car manufacturers will program the stock ECU with a known amount of “play”. This amount of play allows the manufacturer an extra level of safety and/or the ability to utilize this at a later date so they can have an increase in HP in later years. An example of this is where a 2001 car has 200HP and a 2002 car has 215HP. Some manufacturers couple this with additional parts to get increased HP levels, but this should give you some idea of the concept. From a marketing and sales aspect, this ensures that the public will continually be interested in the new year models, even if the body style does not change. While this FAQ is not about the science and art of auto sales, this may give you an insight as to why the stock ECU is not 100% perfectly tuned from the factory.

What are the least talked about benefits of engine management? Engine management solutions to one degree or another can reduce or eliminate black tailpipes, improve driveability throughout the powerband, eliminate the open/closed loop delay in 04+ Subarus, and increase MPG.

What Subarus NEED engine management? While every Subaru will benefit from engine management, the 04+ turbo models (except STI) "require" it. The reason for this is the EPA mandated greater restrictions on ECUs for 2004+ and allow manufacturers to exclude one model. Subaru chose the STI as the exclusion, so the restrictions are not on the STI. The restrictions have to do with the open and closed loop fueling. To put the restrictions in a nutshell without being technical, there is a delay between open and closed loop fueling that can allow your 04+ Subaru to run lean during this crossover point in how your car gets fuel. Lean is dangerous as it produces detonation which is the #1 factor is blown pistons. In stock configuration, 04+ turbo models are fine, but modifications such as exhaust work or higher really necessitate the use of engine management as those mods cause the fueling issue to rear it's head. Yes, you can run certain mods for a short time until you get engine management, but you should never kid yourself on 04+ turbo models that bolt on modifications are fine without engine management.

What about manual/electronic boost controllers or air fuel controllers?
A manual/electronic boost controller or air fuel controller really isn't engine management. MBCs are fine when used correctly on 02/03 WRX and 04+ STI by a judicious user. The issue gets further clouded on 04+ turbo models less STI, due to the open/closed loop delay. One can lump in the mix air/fuel controllers as well for the same reason. Usually those two devices are used by either cheap skates, n00bs, or advanced users who combine them with other forms of real engine management.

What types of engine management solutions are available? They fall into one of these general categories:
a. Reflashed ECU
b. Custom Tuned ECU
c. Piggyback Engine Management
d. Stand Alone Engine Management
e. Open Source Engine Management

Reflashed off the shelf ECU: This is your stock ECU that has had the programming modified. This form of engine management is best suited for people who:
a. Have a “set it and forget it” attitude towards engine management
b. Live in remote areas and do not have easy access to a tuner
c. Do not want to learn or are uneasy doing their own tuning
d. Want to modify their vehicle to a certain level and quit or add parts very infrequently

It is important to note that while reflashed ECUs are considered a static engine management option, they can be custom tuned by the end user by utilizing additional add-ons from the manufacturer or via a custom tuned reflash by an authorized tuner.

In addition, also consider that EcuTek tuners might have reflashes for your exact equipment set-up based on their prior custom tunes. This means that someone who has a full TBE might find the Cobb AccessPort a better plug and play solution, while someone with a full TBE, uppipe, headers, & a lightweight pulley may find an EcuTek reflash a better plug and play solution if they can find an EcuTek tuner with that exact map.

Recently for AccessPORT users, "custom maps" have become vogue. These come in the form of more specific maps for specific mods. Let say you have a stage 2 car with headers, TGV deletes, and a pulley. You email this information to a tuner and they will create a custom map for those mods to use. Some will send you a map and logging software, you load the map and data log, then the tuner sends you a final customized tune. While not as perfect as an in-person/on-dyno custom tune, it's a great resource for those in areas without tuners. Companies that do this are PDX Tuning, Perrin, and Clark Turner.

Examples of reflashed ECUs are the Cobb AccessPort and EcuTek (including Prodrive’s PPP & Vishnu’s reflash).

Reflashed custom tuned ECU: This is the next evolution to a reflashed ECU. This allows either the end user or a professional tuner to custom tune your vehicle to your specific modifications, wants and desires, type of gasoline used, and geographic area. This form of engine management is best suited for people who:
a. Will probably modify their vehicle frequently and require additional tuning
b. People with the ability to do their own tuning
c. People that live close to a tuner
d. People that want to get the maximum power and safety out of their car

Examples of Custom Tuned ECUs are Cobb Tuning’s StreetTUNER for end user tuning, Cobb Tuning’s ProTuner for professional custom tunes, EcuTek custom tune via an EcuTek tuner, and EcuTek's DeltaDash Live User Tuning, an end user tuning solution.

Piggyback Engine Management: This is an engine management option that works in conjunction with your stock ECU. Depending on the manufacturer, this solution works by the piggyback unit controlling some engine management functions and the stock ECU controlling others. This form of engine management is best suited for people who:
a. Will probably modify their vehicle frequently and require additional tuning
b. People with the ability to do their own tuning
c. People that live close to a tuner
d. People that want to get the maximum power and safety out of their car

It is important to mention that most piggyback units come with base maps. These base maps work very similar in function to a reflashed ECU whereas you can run the base map and be 100% fine, or when the day comes for someone to tune their own car or have it professionally tuned, they may do so.

Examples of Piggyback Engine Management are Unichip, Xede, UTEC, and others.

Stand Alone Engine Management: This is an engine management solution that totally replaces the stock ECU and controls 100% of the engine’s functions. This form of engine management is best suited for people who:
a. Will probably modify their vehicle frequently and require additional tuning
b. People with the ability to do their own tuning
c. People that live close to a tuner
d. People that want to get the maximum power and safety out of their car

This form of engine management is generally reserved for more advanced users and people going for really high levels of performance.

It is important to mention that most stand alone systems do come with base maps. Unlike the base maps that come on reflashed ECUs, these base maps are meant for your vehicle to run for a short period of time and are not meant to be used as a permanent solution as is the case with the other base maps as described above. Consider these base maps as merely as short term option until end user or a professional tuning.

Examples of stand alone engine management are MoTeC, Hydra, AEM, and others.

Open Source Engine Management: This can be the cheapest source of engine management available. In essence, you use a laptop, software, and a cable to reflash your stock ECU. Can be used to flash "staged maps" as a set it and forget it option or as a dynamic tuning tool either through tuners or by the end user. This form of engine management is best suited for people who:

Group 1:
A. Already have a good degree of tuning knowledge and understand the logic of the factory ECU (or have a strong desire to learn both).
B. Want to constantly tweak and experiment with their own tune. They actually enjoy the process.
C. May be changing/upgrading mods frequently.

Group 2:
A. Looking to get a custom tune from a professional but cannot afford or do not want to spend the money on license fees and/or hardware costs required of Cobb, Ecutek, etc. That is, they want their car to have a custom tune from a pro at the least cost. More and more professional shops are offering open source tunes and they can be just as capable as tunes from the commercial software.
B. Want an inexpensive (ex. XPT) or free (created by another user) OTS map. Might not go with EM otherwise because they feel it is too expensive. They are willing to learn the basics of logging with RomRaider to make sure the tune doesn't have any issues with their car.

Those people where Open Source Engine Management would be a BAD choice (assuming they are doing it themselves and not a professional tuner):
1. Want the easiest to use, troubleshoot, and closest thing to "set and forget" EM solution.
2. Are computer illiterate.

Examples of Open Source Engine Management are RomRaider, formerly known as Enginuity, EcuFlash, and others.

Can the dealer detect my reflashed ECU (AccessPort/EcuTek/Open Source)?

YES the checksum of the ECU changes.
YES the dealer can easily read the checksum.

NO the dealer has nothing to compare the checksum against there are many revisions of the WRX ecu they all have different checksums. If the dealer had someway of putting this checksum into a database he COULD verify that the code had been modified but at this time he doesn't.

The 05+ ECU and some of the 04s have the VIN in the ECU code. The current versions of reflashed ECUs only change the tables so the VIN will report when queried.

Bottom line: If you don't want modifications to be detected, don't modify the car.

What are some specific types of engine management While this FAQ does not go into specifics for every type of engine management, this thread covers many types. This link offers several comparisons of different system features as well. There are some not covered in these threads though and may be considered as well.

Generally speaking, what engine management option will give me the most power? Custom tuned engine management solutions will always give you more power. Every off the shelf engine management solution has a built in safety factor. This depends on the manufacturer. This is because their “Stage 1” or “VF-30” map has to safely make power for someone living in Phoenix’s heat and 91 octane, to Denver’s high altitude, to Boston’s cold and 93 octane. The gasoline and geographic variances can leave horsepower on the table.

More specifically, what engine management option will give me the most power? This is one question without a correct answer. Let’s say that you research a very comprehensive stand alone engine management system such as a MoTeC unit and decide that it’s the “best” for your car. At the end of the day, it’s about what the tuner is most comfortable with. Some tuners may be able to extract better results from a “lesser” system simply because they understand the interface better.

For someone interested in tuning their own vehicle, they should match their tuning skills with an engine management solution that they are able to understand and use correctly. For someone interested in professional tuning, they should consult with their tuner for their recommendations. Both of these actions will ensure a good tune with a minimum amount of rework, guessing, and trial and error. While most tuners are capable of learning new or more advanced engine management systems, consider the benefits of an “older/worse system” your tuner is familiar with vs. your tuner learning a “newer/better system” at $200/hour plus possible dyno time.

I have a reflashed ECU and am not seeing their advertised HP, why? First off, have you met their criteria EXACTLY? The #1 cause of low HP with reflashed ECU owners is their lack of meeting the manufacturer’s requirements. If they require a full turbo back exhaust and you only have a downpipe and a cat back exhaust, 100% of the blame is on the end user. As well, if they require a full exhaust and you have a full exhaust, uppipe, headers, and a bigger top mount intercooler, this can cause problems as well.

Also realize that HP figures vary. You cannot compare (for example) a manufacturer’s Mustang Dyno HP figures to your local DynoJet HP figures. Even comparing identical dynos to each other is futile as dyno software set-up, altitude, temperature, humidity, and other factors do not ensure an equal result.

In addition, realize that a reflashed ECU still utilizes many of the stock ECU’s learning functions. This means that in a perfect world, you will see the advertised HP from your reflashed ECU. This may also mean that on the day of dyno testing, your octane, the temperature, humidity, and many other factors are considered by the reflashed ECU when determining total power output. If the advertised numbers aren't there on dyno day, it doesn’t necessarily mean there is a problem, but rather, your ECU is protecting your engine from low octane, high temperature, high humidity, or other factors.

How much is a custom tune by a professional? Expect to pay $100-$150 per hour for the dyno time. Your tuner’s fee depends on their level of experience and pricing. Tuners generally charge $100-200 per hour for their time. The amount of total tuning time depends on the tuner and the amount of time you wish for them to tune your vehicle. Most tuners can get your vehicle within 90-95% of its maximum power within 1-2 hours.

How do I go about learning tuning? The quickest source of tuning information lies with local DIY tuning personnel. Get to know locals via your local forum. Ask for advice, tips, and see some real world tuning. Also realize that tuning can become a very personal subject and there is more than one way to get to XXX power level. An excellent example of this is the U.S. vs Japanese tuning philosophy. U.S. tuners tend to run more boost and less timing and Japanese tuners tend to run less boost and more timing. Both can create safe power using these methods; it’s just using two different methods. While this is an over simplification and a generalization, this should give you the wisdom that there are different methodologies that people have successfully used.

Source of tuning information:
a. This thread and this thread though UTEC specific, contain tuning information that may serve useful for other engine management solutions.
b. For personnel interested in advanced tuning theory, or for professionals, consider the tuning articles on www.sae.org as a source of information.
c. How to Tune and Modify Engine Managements Systems by Jeff Hartman is a book dedicated to tuning that may prove useful.
d. EFI University offers classes nationwide on tuning fundamentals and principles.
e. Innovate Motorsports' website not only sells tuning products, but contains a wealth of tuning information.
f. UTEC Quick Tuning Guide While UTEC specific, this contains some good tuning information. (Requires registration on wrxhackers.com to view)
g. RomRaider FAQ

What are some helpful tools to use if I want to monitor my engine’s functions? Some engine management solutions come bundled with engine monitoring software, which is an excellent way to see hard data on your tuning results. If this software does not come bundled with your engine management, consider one of the following solutions:
Simple data logger
TARI DL1 (Diagnostics Level 1) Data Logger
DeltaDash
LogMapper
MPS UTECLogger
Auto-Logger
Scanmaster 3

What gauges/tools are important if I wish to tune my own vehicle? These are considered the "must have" tuning items:

a. Wideband O2 sensor/gauge
b. EGT gauge
c. Boost gauge

What are some other useful tuning tools?
a. Knock detection hardware
b. SMC 4 channel EGT
c. Useful tuning tools from Cobb Tuning

Editors Note

My special thanks to Trey Cobb and Daniel Ponze for their assistance in the formulation of this FAQ.

This post was created because I wasn't able to find a good engine management FAQ. I came up with the text based on LOTS of searching here. It was also created to be intentionally brand neutral so that it serves as a stepping stone for further research. Upon reading this you should have an idea of what type of engine management solution best suits your needs. The manufacturer is up to you.

If you find an error in this FAQ, please PM me with factual details and I will update this post. Responses such as, "I have XXX's engine management and it's great!" or "XXX's engine management runs too rich" are not appreciated here, that is what the Car Parts Review Forum is for.

[jefars]

Le tunning !

FAQ: How to pick one, what to ask of them, and how to prepare for a tune

source: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=1579369

How do I find the right tuner? Sadly, there is no tuner comparison and never will be. Tuning is more art than science so if you lined up 10 tuners with 10 equal cars, you’d get 10 different results. Tuner A would be the safest in terms of long term use. Tuner B would have the highest dyno figure. Tuner C would have the flattest curve. Tuner D would have the best under the curve response. Tuner E would have the quickest spool.

So how do I generally find the one right for me?

I live in an area where there are choices. This is where you need to do some research in several forums as there is no “tuner review forum”. Check the Vendor Review Forum for reviews of that tuner’s work. Search for that tuner’s name in the Power Proven Bragging forum for reviews of their work. Also search for the tuner’s name in your local forum as reviews of their work sometimes occur there. PM people who have been tuned by them for their thoughts.

Remember though...there is more to a tuner's skill than peak HP/TQ numbers on a dyno plot. Yes, Bob is happy making 250WHP on his TD04 2.0L WRX via Tuner Jimmy. But without careful interpretation of the dyno plot, you might not be happy with the peaky torque curve or the removal of all knock correction or the lean AFR or the 22PSI he's spinning his turbo at. This is where looking at the whole dyno plot and talking to end users comes in vs. finding the tuner with the best numbers on a dyno plot. Car magazines put Lamborghinis on the cover to sell magazines and live off of Ford Taurus reviews, tuners do the same thing as a typical Stage 2 tune doesn't have the enthusiasm as a GT35R tune.

I live in the boondocks and have one option or no options. If there is only one, you really have no options unless you want to do a “mail order tune” or organize with others and fly someone in. A mail order tune can vary between tuners, but there are basically two types. One is a better map than the base maps AKA one size fits all maps on the market. It’s basically a plug and play map based on your specifications. The other is where a tuner sends you a map for your mods and you run it to perform some logging to provide feedback to the tuner, then they modify and email you the final map. While mail order tunes are not 100% ideal, they are much better than running base maps are less expensive than a full custom tune, though they require more work on the part of the end user in terms of logging as feedback to the tuner. Some examples of mail order tuners are PDX Tuning, Perrin, and Clark Turner though I’m sure I’m forgetting some others.

Flying in a tuner in is much harder as you have NASIOC Vendor rules to contend with. What you'd have to do is contact a NASIOC Vendor tuner or a NASIOC Vendor that has a dyno and have them organize a tuning day. This can get very complicated as you have to account for profits for all parties and airfare/hotel/rental car. This is all usually handled by the Vendors on their end, but in the end it will be added to your tuning costs. As long as you have organized, sane people show up ready to tune it works out without excessive overhead though. It can be done though.

So if there is only one tuner in your area, you are pretty much a captive audience to them unless you are comfortable with comparing them against the popular mail order tuners or flying someone in. Though there is never 100% in tuning, a tuner with a dyno should always be able to give you better results based on your input than the mail order option. But in some cases, you may be better off with a mail order tune as you have to carefully compare the experience level as well.

Also remember that tuners are limited to what they can tune so if you really want Tuner A to do your tune, he may not be able to tune your EcuTek ECU as he does not have the expensive software to do so. Then you have to find another tune or switch engine management systems.

How much is gonna cost and how long will it take?

Both are questions for your tuner as there is no average. Tuner A may be relatively inexperienced and is looking to make a name for himself, so he may be $50/hour. Tuner B may be a "famous name" tuner, so he can command $200/hour. Tuner C and D may be inbetween in experience levels, but since one lives in Macon, GA he charges peanuts and the other guy lives in Boston, MA so he has to charge bank to survive.

Time is usually tied to cost as most tuners can give you a good time estimate and they are usually pretty accurate unless there are problems. Use the tips below to stop problems before they start. Generally speaking a normal tune will take no more than 2 hours, with most "stage 2" tunes taking one hour. A nitrous, meth injected, EWG car with a MoTeC engine management system...yeah, that's gonna take longer. But to their credit, most tuners are damn accurate on their times and they are also famous for "rounding down" their tuner time.

What should I do to prepare for the tune?

1. Talk to your tuner PRIOR TO getting a tune. Ask for their tuning check list and follow it to the letter. P&L Motorsports has a great check list available via this link under the title Caring for your Vehicle for those without an official checklist.

2. Ask for their brand/type/size injector advice if upgrading them and use them.

3. Ask for their brand/type/gap recommendation on plugs and use them.

4. If you want an intake, ask for their brand/type recommendation. Be prepared for your tuner to talk you out of it though as many will depending on your goals.

5. If you want an aftermarket boost control product such as a new boost control solenoid, external waste gate, manual boost controller, etc., talk to your tuner about this and use their recommendation.

6. Perform your scheduled maintenance prior to showing up to your tune and make sure all your fluids are fresh and functional. And by prior to, allow at least a few days for fluids to settle and get topped off as having an air pocket in your coolant will do wonders for throwing off your tune at $200/hour. Two items not on any maintenance schedule that won't hurt and may help are cleaning your IACV (if so equipped) and cleaning your MAF sensor.

7. Double check everything you have done within the last 3 months or so. Vacuum leaks from fittings/hoses/pipes/couplings that move air and gaskets are the big killers. One of the unknown leaking spots is the BPV or BOV gasket as it is frequently removed and not replaced, so if there’s any doubt, replace it. Another common leak spot is the stock turbo inlet, ensure you visually check it front and back, top and bottom using an inspection mirror for holes or tears.

8. Show up with 100% of your computer gadgets. Bring all the connectors, switches, CDs, your laptop, etc. Make sure that your engine management system is up to date with the latest firmware, updates, etc. unless your tuner specifically states so. Also bring a disk or thumbdrive to download dyno files or maps to.

9. Do not show up with crappy parts and/or crappy installed stuff. If your Cousin Jimmy did the wiring and you have live wires sparking against the pedals, that's not a good thing. Wiring should be neat and loomed or at least zip tied away from everything. Quality, correct parts should always be used...fuel safe lines, pressure lines...these aren't suggestions folks. Do you honestly expect Home Depot tubing of the incorrect diameter to work on your wastegate? Proper diameter and applicability is what you want to run even if it means delays as your tuner will be when your eBay intake collapses, you show up with three (not four) upgraded injectors, or your UTEC is a circuit board in a Tupperware container. And these are real life examples I've seen or heard of.

So what is my timeline for talking to my tuner? Here is the suggested timeline:

6 months prior to tune: Research and choose a tuner. At this point, you should call, email, or better yet visit your tuner and talk to them. Get their checklist and budget/buy NOW for your tune in 6 months. Find out their fees as well as the dyno fees and budget for them, plus an hour extra of each in case of problems.

3 months prior to tune: This is where you want to start purchasing any parts you want added for your tune. Things happen, prices go over budget, items go out of stock, etc. so plan for the worst and hope for the best. This is also the phase where another call with the tuner should occur to verify your purchases.

1 month prior to tune: This is where you want to start installing parts or the planning of your install. This is also where you want to have your tuner send you a “limp map” for your mods and discuss with them any final install or purchase issues. You should also discuss any last minute install items either at the tuning shop or on the shop premises. One that comes to mind that you might do on the dyno or in the parking lot just before the tune is the installation of an aftermarket boost control solenoid. For new turbos and motors, refer to the manufacturer recommended oil type and break-in period. For new clutches, refer to the manufacturer recommended break-in period.

Two weeks prior to tune: By now your parts should be installed and any issues related to the parts should have reared their head by now and this allows sufficient time for replacements, repairs, etc.

Tune day: Arrive early. Arrive with 100% of what your tuner has told you to bring. Come with your tune game plan to allow your tuner to use as a checklist. This game plan should have already been discussed with your tuner and could include CELs you want defeated, new redline set, top speed governor removed, or other tune variables. A list on paper generated a week prior may save you from getting a CEL 50 miles down the road….checklists are never bad.

Should I seek parts advice on NASIOC? Sure, that's fine but some advice is strictly tuner specific and his advice should be taken even if 35 NASIOC gurus suggest otherwise. Tuners can be very specific on spark plugs, boost control solutions (EWG brand/size, aftermarket BCS, EBCS, etc.), and injectors. Most tuners can tune anything, but do you really want to force your tuner into an unfamiliar product? Imagine this scenario: Your tuner recommends Deatschwerks injectors that flow 750 cc. You get a "deal" on PE injectors that flow 650 cc. Your tuner is unfamiliar with them and spends an additional 30 minutes tuning them only to find out that you didn't get ones big enough. Now you get to spend $150 extra in tuner's fees and dyno time along with the fact that the injectors limit you on power because they weren't big enough. This is a hypothetical situation, but similar circumstances could occur. Always default to your tuners advice, especially with these three components if they have a preference.

My car has problems, but my tuner can fix them right? Tuners tune. Yes, they can help troubleshoot simple issues like vacuum tube routing on a boost control solenoid, wastegate adjustment, settings on your boost controller, but don't expect your tuner to be Mr. Goodwrench. You should arrive on your tune date with a 100% operational vehicle unless you have discussed any issues that your tuner can take care of personally or via the shop where he is doing tuning. Mechanics generally charge $80/hour to fix, making a tuner diagnose at upwards of $200/hour is not good.

Editors Note

This post was created because I wasn't able to find a good tuner FAQ. I came up with the text based on LOTS of searching here. Upon reading this you should have an idea of how to choose a tuner and what to do prior to a tune. My thanks to Dan from www.fastwrx.com, Phil from www.elementtuning.com, Clark from www.clarkturner.com, and Jorge from www.pandlmotorsports.com for their input to this. Anything screwed up about this is my fault though.

[sourie19]

bonjour je m'explique jai un wrx usdm 03 que jai flasher stage 2 XPT avec écu flash avec mon câble de la team tactrix (qui se disant a très bien fonctionné) jai eu la confirmation a la fin mais mon boost reste toujours a 12.5 et jai pas l'impression d'avoir 250whp

[sourie19]

ha jai trouver jai fait quelque tours de WG et jai mis 16.8 en 4iem gear