Blow Off Valve pour les nuls
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Blow Off Valve pour les nuls
Source: http://forum.webclub-subaru.com/viewtopic.php?t=100339
La Dump Valve appelée aussi Blow Off Valve est un ensemble mecano pneumatique constititué d'un corps , d'un ressort , d'un piston ou deux pistons ou d’une membrane.
Son rôle est d'évacuer la surpression accumulée dans l'echangeur lors des phases de suralimentation suivies de la fermeture du papillon d'admission .
Cela diminue le coup de belier ( violente montée en pression ) , subi par le turbo au lacher de gaz .Celui ci a quand même lieu mais est limité en amplitude et en temps ( voir graph ).
Elle assure ainsi une meilleure longévité au turbo, et en rend la conduite sans accoup .
La Dump double pistons (la plus utilisée)
Avantage :
-Un second piston plus léger avec un ressort dont le tarage est plus souple se referme pour éviter la dépression dans le collecteur d'admission
ce qui influence sur la rapidité de reprise d’où moins de trous à l’accélération .
Elle peut être de 3 types :
-atmosphérique ( surpression evacuée à l'air libre )
-à recirculation ( surpression évacuée dans le conduit d'admission )
-mixte ( recirculation pour les basses pressions et atmosphérique pour les hautes pressions).
Exemple d’une mixte
Certaines sont réglables par l'intermédiaire une vis ( APS dual vent, SARD R2D2, Greddy Type RS, HKS SSQV ), d'autres en changeant la fermeté du ressort ( Forge ) .
Cas de Forge, couleur des ressorts/ delta pression :
*vert: de 0.3 bar à 1 bar
*jaune 1 bar à 1.58 bar
*bleu 1.58 bar à 2.07 bars
*rouge plus de 2.07 bars
En coupe , la Forge donne ça :
et démontée
-1 deuxième piston
-2 partie inférieure côté échangeur
-3 piston principal
-4 ressort principal
-5 partie supérieure
Principal inconvenient : elle peut être la source de fuite d'air pouvant ainsi perturber la montée en pression de l'air d'admission ...Et cette fuite peut s'accompagner d'un enrichissement temporaire .
Il existe un dernier type de dump valve , celles gérées electroniquement par un capteur à la pédale d'accélérateur . Elle gomme ainsi le temps de retard entre le lacher de pied et l'ouverture de la dump . Et gomme aussi le décalage entre la réaccélération et la fermeture de la dump valve. Permettant un montée en pression plus rapide .Certains ecrits évoquent 1/10ème de seconde gagné ( au total ) à chaque changement de rapport .
http://www.sport6evolution.com/pieces/d ... s_tech.htm
Il existe beaucoup de marques de dump ... Certaines sont de pales copies de grandes marques , mais montrent très vite leurs faiblesses ( fuites +++ )...
Pour les plus connues et utilisées : Forge , HKS , SARD , APS , Greddy , Sport6Evolution .
Les plus connues en photos
HKS SSQV
Et le son : http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=Sp5w_ci6slg
Forge V5
Et le son : http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=oqkg_nuyz ... re=related
Greddy type RS
Et le son : http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=K-_bFSAOq ... re=related
SARD R2D2
Et le son : http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=KWebbGhNbRk
APS dual Vent
Le changement de dump ne s'accompagnera pas d'un gain de puissance ! Au mieux vous éviterez les accoups aux brusques levers de pieds , ce que la dump d'origine a parfois du mal à endiguer.
Vous aurez simplement le plaisir d'entendre et de faire entendre ( aux passants ) ce bruit caractéristique : « pshiiiiii ... « . En général suivi de « Broooooô ... » .
NB : dans le cadre d'une préparation moteur avec augmentation de la pression de turbo ( Pmax > 1,3 bars ) , il est vivement recommandé de changer la dump d'origine au profit d'une de celles citées plus haut .
Bref , le choix d'une dump valve "aftermarket" est avant tout une histoire de goût !
____________________________________________
Source: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468038
Blow Off Valve FAQ
Term usage: "Blow off valves" go by several names, among them are compressor bypass valve (CBV), air by-pass valve, bypass valve (BPV), blow off valve (BOV), Diverter valve, and possibly a few others. BOV is the common and incorrect term that lumps true blow off valves and bypass valves under the same term. For the sake of correctness, this post will refer to either aftermarket BOV, aftermarket BPV or OEM BPV as these are the most correct terms.
What is the function of a blow off valve (BOV)?
To release pressure from the intake tract of a turbo car when the throttle closes. It is a vacuum-actuated valve designed to releases the air to the atmosphere.
What is the function of a bypass valve (BPV)?
To release pressure from the intake tract of a turbo car when the throttle closes. It is a vacuum-actuated valve designed to recirculate the air back into the intake before the turbo inlet, but after the airflow sensor.
What is the purpose of a BOV/BPV?
When the throttle closes and the intake system is under pressure, the high-pressure air entering the motor will bump into the closed throttle plate, and in the absence of a BOV/BPV, a pressure wave will travel back to the turbocharger. The result is that the compressor wheel will stall (a phenomenon known as “compressor surge”) and slow down very quickly. This is hard on the bearings and decreases the turbo’s lifespan, but it also means the turbo will take longer to spin up the next time the throttle is opened.
Are aftermarket BOVs necessary with Subaru turbos?
No. The OEM BPV is perfectly fine up to 20psi of boost. For applications using higher boost levels, an aftermarket BOV/BPV should be considered.
Can I mod my stock BPV to hold higher boost?
Yes. This link gives detailed instructions on how to do so.
Is the STi BPV better than the WRX BPV?
No. They are the same. However, the JDM STi BPV will hold more boost as it is physically different than both the USDM STi BPV and the WRX BPV. The specific PSI rating of the JDM STi BPV is unknown, but users have reported it is good up to 25 PSI.
Is an aftermarket BPV better than the stock BPV?
No. Unless you are considering an aftermarket BPV solely for the purposes of holding higher boost levels. An aftermarket unit should sound just like the OEM unit.
Which manufacturer is best?
This topic is highly debated. There have been no reported consistent "bad" aftermarket BOVs. Obviously, there may have been bad ones sold, but not enough to report as "bad" overall.
What are the different types of aftermarket BOVs/BPVs?
Different manufacturers use different methods. There are three basic types:
1. Aftermarket BPV: Similar in function to the OEM BPV where 100% of the air is recirculated.
2. Atmospheric BOV: 100% of the air is vented to the atmosphere.
3. Hybrid BOV: These depend on the manufacturer and end user settings. These can either be adjustable or manufacturer set for different percentages of atmospheric/recirculation dumping. They can also be set to work as recirculation during lower boost conditions and 100% atmospheric during higher boost conditions.
Are there any downsides to aftermarket BOVs?
There have not been significant amounts of problems with BOVs. Aftermarket BOVs can and do require some light end user maintenance to keep them performing perfectly. For aftermarket hybrid BOVs that have end user defined settings, there will be an initial period of adjustment to obtain the desired recirculation/atmospheric ratio. As well, most aftermarket BOVs will require "tuning" (usually via supplied washers, a screw, or other mechanism on the BOV itself) to allow them to idle correctly and blow off at the right time.
Are there any negative effects with aftermarket BOVs? Yes. The downside of releasing the air to atmosphere is that it has already been metered by the mass air sensor, and when it blows off, the ECU will be injecting the wrong amount of fuel into the cylinders. The engine temporarily runs rich, meaning too much fuel is injected into the cylinders. On most tunes the target A/F under boost is @11.1:1 or so. Say you are at 11.1:1, then you shift and it vents. It will swing rich, typically to around 9.5:1. That is not that rich and this period lasts for under one second...again, nothing to write home about.
This temporary rich condition isn’t usually that harmful. Technically, it can eventually foul spark plugs and even clog the catalytic converter as unburned fuel on the catalytic converter burns very hot, and too much of it can melt the cat. The odds of either of these two conditions actually happening is very, very low though, but that's the theory.
As to blanket "you'll run rich" statements, a BOV will only run "rich" during hard acceleration and shifting as 99% of the time it stays closed.
Can my tuner or engine management tune out this rich period?
Yes. There are some forms of engine management that can tune this out. Buying your engine managment soley for this purpose is a poor method of choosing an engine managment system though.
What about a 50/50 or BOVs that you can portion the VTA portion?
This is a bad analogy, but if a BOV is a person in a wheelchair, a 50/50 BOV is a person in leg braces. It's not as bad, but not good enough to say bolt it up. If you find a deal on one or happen to like the sound of a particular model, go for it, but don't think you are doing your car better vs. a 100% VTA model.
Won't I be labeled as a ricer?
It's your car, do with it what you like, but be aware that many people are prejudiced against BOVs just like neon underbody lights and other accessories. Be aware that a BOV can be seen as a dinner bell for street racers though. It attracts attention both good and bad.
So a BOV is not bad then right?
Not so fast...most BOVs leak. Even ones that are religiously maintained, installed, and are from quality manufacturers. A leak in essence means less boost and less power or your car will be working harder to produce boost than it means, which can decrease reliability.
How do I set up my BOV to not leak/stand less chance of leaking?
Read the BOV manual/instructions first off. Learn how to adjust it. If it doesnt have a manual, just look at the valve. You can almost aways figure out how to adjust it. Some have screws, some use washers under the spring, others use replacement springs. Now that you know how to adjust it, here is what you do:
First off, start the car, get out and open the hood. If you can see the piston of the valve (look in the hole it vents out of if its a VTA valve), check to see if it is moving at all at idle, or worse, partially open. You want that piston rock solid, not moving at idle.
Now give it a little gas. It shouldnt move when you step on it, and when you lift, it should pull up a bit. Depending how hard you hit the gas, it will either JUST move, or fully open.
If its doing anything but what it should be, adjust it a little tighter.
Now go drive the car
When you shift at light throttle, is it venting? If so, is it a pure straight vent, or do you get a little bit of a "chufchchchc" noise right before it vents? That noise is compressor surge. Which isnt as bad as some people like to think and say. Ideally, you are looking to hear a little surge then a vent. Or no sound at all. Either is ok. Now drive it hard, does it surge a little or just straight vent?
Get out of the car and tighten the valve and drive it again. Repeat this until you get a LOT of surge when you lift under boost. Now start loosening it until you JUST start to hear no almost surge.
What the surge means is that it fought opening just a little bit. If you hear a LITTLE surge just as it begins to vent, that means that the valve is holding itself shut as tightly as it is capable of, without being so tight that it doesnt vent properly.
I have had XXXX brand valve for years, it has never leaked. How do you know? By looking at your boost gauge?
Looking at the boost levels in your datalog? Neither of those prove that the valve isnt leaking. The advice above tells you how to set it and KNOW for 100% sure.
But compressor surge will kill my turbo! Unless its really bad, it really isnt going to kill it.
I have had XXXX brand valve for years, it has never leaked. How do you know? By looking at your boost gauge?
Looking at the boost levels in your datalog? Neither of those prove that the valve isnt leaking.
Where do I buy aftermarket BOVs/BPVs?
Every Subaru/Import performance store sells BOVs. For purchasing, support your local economy or the NASIOC Vendors.
How hard is it to install aftermarket BOVs/BPVs?
Allow around 1 hour for install time. Professional installation, depending on your area, is around $75. This is one vehicle modification that is very simple and can be successfully accomplished by even the greenest shade tree mechanic.
How do I install BOVs/BPVs?
Refer to the BOV/BPV manufacturer's instructions. For BOVs/BPVs without instructions, below is a link to one of the better known installation instructions:
scoobymods.com instructions (with photos)
If you are wanting to be 100% sure you arent losing any power from a BOV, and you are running under about 22PSI, you are best off sticking with a stock unit.
La Dump Valve appelée aussi Blow Off Valve est un ensemble mecano pneumatique constititué d'un corps , d'un ressort , d'un piston ou deux pistons ou d’une membrane.
Son rôle est d'évacuer la surpression accumulée dans l'echangeur lors des phases de suralimentation suivies de la fermeture du papillon d'admission .
Cela diminue le coup de belier ( violente montée en pression ) , subi par le turbo au lacher de gaz .Celui ci a quand même lieu mais est limité en amplitude et en temps ( voir graph ).
Elle assure ainsi une meilleure longévité au turbo, et en rend la conduite sans accoup .
La Dump double pistons (la plus utilisée)
Avantage :
-Un second piston plus léger avec un ressort dont le tarage est plus souple se referme pour éviter la dépression dans le collecteur d'admission
ce qui influence sur la rapidité de reprise d’où moins de trous à l’accélération .
Elle peut être de 3 types :
-atmosphérique ( surpression evacuée à l'air libre )
-à recirculation ( surpression évacuée dans le conduit d'admission )
-mixte ( recirculation pour les basses pressions et atmosphérique pour les hautes pressions).
Exemple d’une mixte
Certaines sont réglables par l'intermédiaire une vis ( APS dual vent, SARD R2D2, Greddy Type RS, HKS SSQV ), d'autres en changeant la fermeté du ressort ( Forge ) .
Cas de Forge, couleur des ressorts/ delta pression :
*vert: de 0.3 bar à 1 bar
*jaune 1 bar à 1.58 bar
*bleu 1.58 bar à 2.07 bars
*rouge plus de 2.07 bars
En coupe , la Forge donne ça :
et démontée
-1 deuxième piston
-2 partie inférieure côté échangeur
-3 piston principal
-4 ressort principal
-5 partie supérieure
Principal inconvenient : elle peut être la source de fuite d'air pouvant ainsi perturber la montée en pression de l'air d'admission ...Et cette fuite peut s'accompagner d'un enrichissement temporaire .
Il existe un dernier type de dump valve , celles gérées electroniquement par un capteur à la pédale d'accélérateur . Elle gomme ainsi le temps de retard entre le lacher de pied et l'ouverture de la dump . Et gomme aussi le décalage entre la réaccélération et la fermeture de la dump valve. Permettant un montée en pression plus rapide .Certains ecrits évoquent 1/10ème de seconde gagné ( au total ) à chaque changement de rapport .
http://www.sport6evolution.com/pieces/d ... s_tech.htm
Il existe beaucoup de marques de dump ... Certaines sont de pales copies de grandes marques , mais montrent très vite leurs faiblesses ( fuites +++ )...
Pour les plus connues et utilisées : Forge , HKS , SARD , APS , Greddy , Sport6Evolution .
Les plus connues en photos
HKS SSQV
Et le son : http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=Sp5w_ci6slg
Forge V5
Et le son : http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=oqkg_nuyz ... re=related
Greddy type RS
Et le son : http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=K-_bFSAOq ... re=related
SARD R2D2
Et le son : http://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=KWebbGhNbRk
APS dual Vent
Le changement de dump ne s'accompagnera pas d'un gain de puissance ! Au mieux vous éviterez les accoups aux brusques levers de pieds , ce que la dump d'origine a parfois du mal à endiguer.
Vous aurez simplement le plaisir d'entendre et de faire entendre ( aux passants ) ce bruit caractéristique : « pshiiiiii ... « . En général suivi de « Broooooô ... » .
NB : dans le cadre d'une préparation moteur avec augmentation de la pression de turbo ( Pmax > 1,3 bars ) , il est vivement recommandé de changer la dump d'origine au profit d'une de celles citées plus haut .
Bref , le choix d'une dump valve "aftermarket" est avant tout une histoire de goût !
____________________________________________
Source: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=468038
Blow Off Valve FAQ
Term usage: "Blow off valves" go by several names, among them are compressor bypass valve (CBV), air by-pass valve, bypass valve (BPV), blow off valve (BOV), Diverter valve, and possibly a few others. BOV is the common and incorrect term that lumps true blow off valves and bypass valves under the same term. For the sake of correctness, this post will refer to either aftermarket BOV, aftermarket BPV or OEM BPV as these are the most correct terms.
What is the function of a blow off valve (BOV)?
To release pressure from the intake tract of a turbo car when the throttle closes. It is a vacuum-actuated valve designed to releases the air to the atmosphere.
What is the function of a bypass valve (BPV)?
To release pressure from the intake tract of a turbo car when the throttle closes. It is a vacuum-actuated valve designed to recirculate the air back into the intake before the turbo inlet, but after the airflow sensor.
What is the purpose of a BOV/BPV?
When the throttle closes and the intake system is under pressure, the high-pressure air entering the motor will bump into the closed throttle plate, and in the absence of a BOV/BPV, a pressure wave will travel back to the turbocharger. The result is that the compressor wheel will stall (a phenomenon known as “compressor surge”) and slow down very quickly. This is hard on the bearings and decreases the turbo’s lifespan, but it also means the turbo will take longer to spin up the next time the throttle is opened.
Are aftermarket BOVs necessary with Subaru turbos?
No. The OEM BPV is perfectly fine up to 20psi of boost. For applications using higher boost levels, an aftermarket BOV/BPV should be considered.
Can I mod my stock BPV to hold higher boost?
Yes. This link gives detailed instructions on how to do so.
Is the STi BPV better than the WRX BPV?
No. They are the same. However, the JDM STi BPV will hold more boost as it is physically different than both the USDM STi BPV and the WRX BPV. The specific PSI rating of the JDM STi BPV is unknown, but users have reported it is good up to 25 PSI.
Is an aftermarket BPV better than the stock BPV?
No. Unless you are considering an aftermarket BPV solely for the purposes of holding higher boost levels. An aftermarket unit should sound just like the OEM unit.
Which manufacturer is best?
This topic is highly debated. There have been no reported consistent "bad" aftermarket BOVs. Obviously, there may have been bad ones sold, but not enough to report as "bad" overall.
What are the different types of aftermarket BOVs/BPVs?
Different manufacturers use different methods. There are three basic types:
1. Aftermarket BPV: Similar in function to the OEM BPV where 100% of the air is recirculated.
2. Atmospheric BOV: 100% of the air is vented to the atmosphere.
3. Hybrid BOV: These depend on the manufacturer and end user settings. These can either be adjustable or manufacturer set for different percentages of atmospheric/recirculation dumping. They can also be set to work as recirculation during lower boost conditions and 100% atmospheric during higher boost conditions.
Are there any downsides to aftermarket BOVs?
There have not been significant amounts of problems with BOVs. Aftermarket BOVs can and do require some light end user maintenance to keep them performing perfectly. For aftermarket hybrid BOVs that have end user defined settings, there will be an initial period of adjustment to obtain the desired recirculation/atmospheric ratio. As well, most aftermarket BOVs will require "tuning" (usually via supplied washers, a screw, or other mechanism on the BOV itself) to allow them to idle correctly and blow off at the right time.
Are there any negative effects with aftermarket BOVs? Yes. The downside of releasing the air to atmosphere is that it has already been metered by the mass air sensor, and when it blows off, the ECU will be injecting the wrong amount of fuel into the cylinders. The engine temporarily runs rich, meaning too much fuel is injected into the cylinders. On most tunes the target A/F under boost is @11.1:1 or so. Say you are at 11.1:1, then you shift and it vents. It will swing rich, typically to around 9.5:1. That is not that rich and this period lasts for under one second...again, nothing to write home about.
This temporary rich condition isn’t usually that harmful. Technically, it can eventually foul spark plugs and even clog the catalytic converter as unburned fuel on the catalytic converter burns very hot, and too much of it can melt the cat. The odds of either of these two conditions actually happening is very, very low though, but that's the theory.
As to blanket "you'll run rich" statements, a BOV will only run "rich" during hard acceleration and shifting as 99% of the time it stays closed.
Can my tuner or engine management tune out this rich period?
Yes. There are some forms of engine management that can tune this out. Buying your engine managment soley for this purpose is a poor method of choosing an engine managment system though.
What about a 50/50 or BOVs that you can portion the VTA portion?
This is a bad analogy, but if a BOV is a person in a wheelchair, a 50/50 BOV is a person in leg braces. It's not as bad, but not good enough to say bolt it up. If you find a deal on one or happen to like the sound of a particular model, go for it, but don't think you are doing your car better vs. a 100% VTA model.
Won't I be labeled as a ricer?
It's your car, do with it what you like, but be aware that many people are prejudiced against BOVs just like neon underbody lights and other accessories. Be aware that a BOV can be seen as a dinner bell for street racers though. It attracts attention both good and bad.
So a BOV is not bad then right?
Not so fast...most BOVs leak. Even ones that are religiously maintained, installed, and are from quality manufacturers. A leak in essence means less boost and less power or your car will be working harder to produce boost than it means, which can decrease reliability.
How do I set up my BOV to not leak/stand less chance of leaking?
Read the BOV manual/instructions first off. Learn how to adjust it. If it doesnt have a manual, just look at the valve. You can almost aways figure out how to adjust it. Some have screws, some use washers under the spring, others use replacement springs. Now that you know how to adjust it, here is what you do:
First off, start the car, get out and open the hood. If you can see the piston of the valve (look in the hole it vents out of if its a VTA valve), check to see if it is moving at all at idle, or worse, partially open. You want that piston rock solid, not moving at idle.
Now give it a little gas. It shouldnt move when you step on it, and when you lift, it should pull up a bit. Depending how hard you hit the gas, it will either JUST move, or fully open.
If its doing anything but what it should be, adjust it a little tighter.
Now go drive the car
When you shift at light throttle, is it venting? If so, is it a pure straight vent, or do you get a little bit of a "chufchchchc" noise right before it vents? That noise is compressor surge. Which isnt as bad as some people like to think and say. Ideally, you are looking to hear a little surge then a vent. Or no sound at all. Either is ok. Now drive it hard, does it surge a little or just straight vent?
Get out of the car and tighten the valve and drive it again. Repeat this until you get a LOT of surge when you lift under boost. Now start loosening it until you JUST start to hear no almost surge.
What the surge means is that it fought opening just a little bit. If you hear a LITTLE surge just as it begins to vent, that means that the valve is holding itself shut as tightly as it is capable of, without being so tight that it doesnt vent properly.
I have had XXXX brand valve for years, it has never leaked. How do you know? By looking at your boost gauge?
Looking at the boost levels in your datalog? Neither of those prove that the valve isnt leaking. The advice above tells you how to set it and KNOW for 100% sure.
But compressor surge will kill my turbo! Unless its really bad, it really isnt going to kill it.
I have had XXXX brand valve for years, it has never leaked. How do you know? By looking at your boost gauge?
Looking at the boost levels in your datalog? Neither of those prove that the valve isnt leaking.
Where do I buy aftermarket BOVs/BPVs?
Every Subaru/Import performance store sells BOVs. For purchasing, support your local economy or the NASIOC Vendors.
How hard is it to install aftermarket BOVs/BPVs?
Allow around 1 hour for install time. Professional installation, depending on your area, is around $75. This is one vehicle modification that is very simple and can be successfully accomplished by even the greenest shade tree mechanic.
How do I install BOVs/BPVs?
Refer to the BOV/BPV manufacturer's instructions. For BOVs/BPVs without instructions, below is a link to one of the better known installation instructions:
scoobymods.com instructions (with photos)
If you are wanting to be 100% sure you arent losing any power from a BOV, and you are running under about 22PSI, you are best off sticking with a stock unit.
Dernière modification par std le dim. oct. 11, 2009 11:23 am, modifié 1 fois.
BRZ tS 2018
- touz
- Scooby FREAK
- Messages : 1483
- Inscription : jeu. févr. 22, 2007 10:42 pm
- Localisation : Thetford mines
bon là là jme choque!!!!
pourquoi ya pas un sticky en haut de chaque section qu'on appelrais FAQ (frequently asked questions) avec une liste de liens vers des threads super informatif comme celui que notre ami std vien de faire!!! j'ai vu sa ds un autre forum.......nasioc et j'ai ben aimé sa!!
pk yen as pas ici?? le seuil de tollérances des réponses accepté ds ses treads serait tres strict. si sa apporte rien = deleted. sa du bon sens??
std ta faite une super job!! sa répond a toute les question qui peu avoir sur les pchiiiit! des bov
STICKYÉ MOI SA.....SVP
merci
Touz
his: Wrx 02 wagon SOLD!
her: Legacy GT 05....STI !
Tuned by Mars1
his: Wrx 02 wagon SOLD!
her: Legacy GT 05....STI !
Tuned by Mars1
- mas_oyama
- Scooby FREAK
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- Inscription : lun. juil. 16, 2007 6:29 am
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Ça serait bien aussi que les désavantages d'une Dump/Bypass valve mixte/atmosphérique Soient expliqués ici.
Même après avoir discuté un peu sur le sujet, je trouve ça encore un peu nébuleux.
Je sais que si l'air n'est pas recirculée, en partie ou en totalité, tu roule hyper riche pendant une fraction de seconde, ce qui fait que le gaz n'est pas tout brulé, ce qui peux causer des dépôts dans le downpipe(dans le catalyseur je crois), ce qui, je crois, peux entrainer certains problèmes assez graves.
Ceci étant dit, je ne connais pas l'étendu des problèmes que ça peut causer, ainsi que la période de temps après laquelle l'on commence à être a risque avec une BOV 50/50 vs 100%
Aussi j'aimerais connaitre la raison pour laquelle c'est le downpipe qui bouche... Le uppipe et la turbine sont avant le downpipe... pourquoi c'est pas plutôt le uppipe qui bouche? et est-ce que ça peux nuire au turbo lui même aussi éventuellement? Moi ma BOV est 50/50. c'est e fun, mais j'aimerais ça qu'elle sonne plus... j'aimerais ça mettre une 100%, mais ça me fait peur... déjà que je sais qu'une 50/50, c'est pas hyper safe, j'aurais vraiment la chienne de pousser ma luck avec une 100%...
Donc si quelqu'un voulait bien éclaircir ce point là, une fois pour toute, dans ce topic qui pourrait devenir sticky, ça serai une bonne chose.
Même après avoir discuté un peu sur le sujet, je trouve ça encore un peu nébuleux.
Je sais que si l'air n'est pas recirculée, en partie ou en totalité, tu roule hyper riche pendant une fraction de seconde, ce qui fait que le gaz n'est pas tout brulé, ce qui peux causer des dépôts dans le downpipe(dans le catalyseur je crois), ce qui, je crois, peux entrainer certains problèmes assez graves.
Ceci étant dit, je ne connais pas l'étendu des problèmes que ça peut causer, ainsi que la période de temps après laquelle l'on commence à être a risque avec une BOV 50/50 vs 100%
Aussi j'aimerais connaitre la raison pour laquelle c'est le downpipe qui bouche... Le uppipe et la turbine sont avant le downpipe... pourquoi c'est pas plutôt le uppipe qui bouche? et est-ce que ça peux nuire au turbo lui même aussi éventuellement? Moi ma BOV est 50/50. c'est e fun, mais j'aimerais ça qu'elle sonne plus... j'aimerais ça mettre une 100%, mais ça me fait peur... déjà que je sais qu'une 50/50, c'est pas hyper safe, j'aurais vraiment la chienne de pousser ma luck avec une 100%...
Donc si quelqu'un voulait bien éclaircir ce point là, une fois pour toute, dans ce topic qui pourrait devenir sticky, ça serai une bonne chose.
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Probablement pcq les gens qui ont le trouble, n'ont plus de catalyseur dans le up-pipe.mas_oyama a écrit : Aussi j'aimerais connaitre la raison pour laquelle c'est le downpipe qui bouche... Le uppipe et la turbine sont avant le downpipe... pourquoi c'est pas plutôt le uppipe qui bouche? se.
Ça devrait être mis en sticky en haut de la page ce topic là, c'est bien expliqué.
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y'est ben weird ton setup! c'est la premiere fois que je vois ca... m'essemble que le I/C doit pas recevoir gros d'air placé là
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Le master de brake est à droite, c'est un JDM, donc un 93 ou 94. Les intercooler étaient petits à cette époque.mas_oyama a écrit :y'est ben weird ton setup! c'est la premiere fois que je vois ca... m'essemble que le I/C doit pas recevoir gros d'air placé là
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ouais mais la il est plus loin derriere, et canté sur le coté... m'essemble qu'il doit pas arriver sous le scoop! a moins que ca sois un illusion d'optique de la facon que la photo a été prise... je suis pas un suoer connaisseur non plus... mais m'essemble que mon I/C est plus proche du devant que ca moi...Swatch a écrit :Le master de brake est à droite, c'est un JDM, donc un 93 ou 94. Les intercooler étaient petits à cette époque.mas_oyama a écrit :y'est ben weird ton setup! c'est la premiere fois que je vois ca... m'essemble que le I/C doit pas recevoir gros d'air placé là
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ah ok merci. j'ai jamais vu un bloc de 97 et avant stock. lol.steph z-24 a écrit :c'est stock tout ca.
tout ce qui est avant 97 a cette configuration la !
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c'est pas un subaru mais bon...
mais quelle est la meilleur??
moi jai une hks ssqv et je laime bien!
c'est pas un subaru mais bon...
mais quelle est la meilleur??
moi jai une hks ssqv et je laime bien!
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